Week Six: Florence and Verona
Faith, Carbs, and House Wine
The previous week was full of many pleasures and also marked the halfway point of my European tour. Throughout the first six weeks of my trip I have felt a deepening sense of self-reliance. When confronting moments of slight hopelessness, resilience becomes the most practical choice.
Having the skeleton of my trip planned in advance enables me to enjoy each stop along the way. Letting go of must-do’s when deciding activities for each day I can choose in accordance with how I feel. This method of “structured spontaneity” helps the organization-loving part of my brain feel safe.
Returning to Florence was a mix of familiar and new experiences. The city is steeped in prestigious history and it shows. It is also saturated with tourists and foreign students (less cool). My stay was split between two hostels. The first of which was formerly a hospital and convent with its history dating back to the 1300s. It still had that cold stone and burning candles church smell. The balcony patio overlooked Florance in the distance. A nightly offering of house wine and family style pasta dinner priced modestly at 8 euro immediately provided a sense of community. I quickly befriended a few people and proceeded to coordinate evening plans in the days that followed. My second accommodation was my least favorite of the trip, but, it served its purpose as a place to sleep while being located closer to the city center.
I dedicated a day to museums viewing the infamous David sculpture by Micheal Angelo and the Uffizi art gallery. The gallery housed many Greek statues as old as first century AD. Paintings from the Renaissance and Gothic periods filled the walls with catholicism as an obvious theme.
Adventuring during the day and syncing up with friends in the evenings made each day feel very complete. Having ‘what did you do today’ conversations over wine and snacks made me happy especially after the loneliness experienced during week five.
Honorable Mentions:
Giardino delle Rose on the hillside close to the Piazza de Micheal Angelo, I enjoyed a view of the city below and a grassy place to sit. The blooming roses perfumed the warm spring air. I came here twice. Once on my own and once for a birthday picnic for a newly befriended hostel mate. We ate cornichones, cheese, and taralli while sipping white wine as the sun set over the city.
Riva Reno gelato is the gelato place my family and I found to be our favorite during a trip years ago. With many gelato options, to get the authentic stuff you have look for shops with either round metal tins or containers with evenly spread appearance. Gelato presented in mounds or swirls are not usually made in-house and are therefore less deliciously creamy and fresh.
Amorini Panini e Vino Firernze found on a narrow side street behind the Duomo, I got the best roasted veggie focaccia sandwich of my life. Complete with a variety of succulent roasted vegetables, goat cheese, pesto, and arugula. I devoured it sitting on a bench by the Duomo while people watching.
Antico Noe offered the best panini I’ve ever eaten. Recommended to me from a work friend at home, their claim that “NOTHING COMPARES” is warranted. My order was simple, just turkey, mozzarella, and sun dried tomatoes but insanely delicious. Second best part was that it costed me a modest six euro. Apparently they have a second location in Manhattan so my New Yorkers will have to try and report back… not sure if it is only six dollar there though.
Enoteca ala Ostia die Papi was the chosen meeting spot after solo daytime adventures for evening aperotivo between myself and new friend. We ended up spending 4 hours chatting over sparkling house rosé and salty snacks. Hopefully our paths will cross again one day!
An easy hour and a half train ride took me to Verona next. One of the friends I had made in Florence was going to Verona too. Conveniently we were staying at the same hostel once again. We spent the afternoon after arriving exploring the marvelous churches and old city together. She left the next morning for Rome and I was on my own again. I spent the next days walking through the beautifully archaic city and resting in the shade of the hostel garden.
Only a short train ride away, I spent one of my days in Venice. The city is unlike anywhere I have been before. It was very amusing to imagine what it would be like to have a boat instead of a car as my main transportation vehicle. Navigating the city was like a corn maze with dead ends bringing you right to the edge of the canal. I avoided tourist traps as best as I could while wandering through crowded streets. A day was all I needed to see main sights such as Saint Mark’s Basillica, The Migrant Child by Banksy, Rialto Bridge, and taste traditional Venetian cicchetti (the Italian version of ‘bites of food on bread’).
Out of all the Italian cities I visited within the last ten days, Verona became my favorite. It’s Roman roots are still evident despite many successive historical ages. Tales of love and gladiators painted imaginative pictures in my mind as I wandered the streets. It seemed more quiet, despite the tourist heavy center, but offered opportunities to enjoy authentic Italian culture and moments of peaceful solitude.
Honorable mentions:
A free walking tour of the city was an entertaining and informative way to spend my morning. Our guide was an excellent story teller who shared the history and lore while highlighting important architectural landmarks.
Panorama San Pietro is the best place to find a brilliant panoramic view of the city. Just have to climb 330 stairs up the hillside to see it!
La Bottega Della Gina was the perfect place to satisfy my craving for tomato-y pasta. Their gnocchi was perfectly squishy and lightly coated in humbly simple tomato sauce. Truly a soft and squishy food lover’s dream. I could not have imagined a better last dinner in Italy.
Humana Vintage was the best vintage store I have found on my trip so far. I got a few pieces which fit into my pack by leaving behind a pair of my jeans. With a limited capacity for items, one must learn to let go…
Italy has filled my belly with good food and mind with happy memories. Moving farther north to Germany, I am excited to meet enjoy the comfort of family friends and familiar culture.
A human phenomenon that fascinates me is the spectrum of (often opposing) feelings we can hold in a single moment. When I find myself missing aspects of home, knowing that this trip will eventually end brings peace. In fact, by acknowledging the ending I am able to enjoy and immerse myself more. There is much bitter-sweetness in life. I believe by honoring all feelings, an experience gets to exist wholly.
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